Category Archives: India

India: Six Months, in the Blink of an Eye, in (someone else’s) Poems

October 18th, 8AM: Arrive at the New Delhi airport just as the day starts to heat up.  Unload my gargantuan bag off of the conveyor belt, wheel it around the concourse looking for the perfect spot, settle on a little … Continue reading

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South India in 6,000 Calories per Day

That’s what the online calculator says you need in order to propel 145 pounds of body and 45 pounds of gear 160 kilometers in nine hours. Judging by my fooding schedule for the 2100 kilometer jaunt down the subcontinent, it … Continue reading

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Lohardaga, Birmitrapur, Jharsuguda, Balangir, Bhwanipatna, Parvatipuram, Visakhapatnam, Rajahmundry, Vijayawada, Gudur, Sulurupetta, Mamallapuram, and 2,000km Worth of Other Places I Can’t Keep Straight

At long last, uncharted territory!  Not the mountains of Nepal, trekked by tens of thousands yearly, nor the flats of UP, griped about by every cyclist who dares to take the shortest route from Delhi to Kathmandu, but a big, … Continue reading

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Money, Compliments, Publicity: Varanasi to Vizag and Beyond

A man once said the pinnacle of success is when you finally lose interest in money, complements, and publicity. A noble enough idea, I suppose. But how on earth he does this, heaven only knows. I know I’m gonna need … Continue reading

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Uttar Pradesh: At Least the Food is Amazing

There are a lot of things not to like in UP – touts and pickpockets at the big tourist sites; roadkill, traffic, stares, and endless badgering about why you’re 30 and not yet married everywhere else – but the food … Continue reading

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Uttar Pradesh: Don’t Take It Personal

I’ve dropped the F-bomb plenty of times over the last two years and thirty thousand kilometers.  Maybe when a giant container truck comes speeding past, situated right between me and the sun so that it momentarily blocks all light.  The … Continue reading

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India Stats!

This is definitely my favorite kind of post.  I hope you’re looking forward to being blinded by some dazzling Excel graphs at least half as much as I’m looking forward to sharing them with you.   Are you ready to get … Continue reading

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Fooding in Sikkim: Homestays Win, Hands Down

All those long ascents and chilly, shivery nights left me with a major calorie deficit.  Most of the time, I battled it with the usual one-two punches that had served me so well for the previous three months in the … Continue reading

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India’s Northeast: Scenes and Scenery, Sikkim/September Edition

I’m afraid this edition is going to be a little sparse.  It’s not that Sikkim – a pinky-nail-sized Indian state sandwiched right between Nepal to the west, Tibet to the north, and Bhutan to the east – isn’t full of … Continue reading

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These Are (not?) Indians: West Bengal & Sikkim Edition

From the mountains of Nagaland to the plains of Assam to the mountains (again) of Arunachal Pradesh to the moors of Meghalaya to the flood plains of West Bengal to the mountains (again, again) of Sikkim, no matter how much … Continue reading

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