Category Archives: Yunnan

China Tries Various Strategies to Prevent Me from Leaving

A few days ago, I woke up on the concrete floor in the back room of the restaurant where I had had a late lunch. The owner had been kind enough to grant me permission to take a nap, and … Continue reading

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Everything looks awesome when it’s about to rain

It’s bipolar season in south Yunnan. Sometimes the skies are bright, the clouds are thin and sparse, and the sun cooks all of my mangoes so thoroughly that I have to eat them practically half-rotten. At other times, everything up … Continue reading

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Yunnan Food, Part 3 of 3.

Nine months in China and I’m still not sick of the food. Here’s why: Just a few of these little dried peppers make even something as simple as this cabbage super-delicious. Every once in a while, when I’ve had a … Continue reading

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A Glaring Omission

I included the following mural under my May Statistics post under the category of Most Kickass Street Art, or something like that. Then I forgot to translate it. Here it is again, crisp, visceral, moving, and true. Zhe bing bu … Continue reading

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The Longest Week

Having made it as far north as I was legally permitted to go (and even a little further), I turned around and headed right back down the way I came. For 350km. Then for another 450. Less than an hour … Continue reading

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May Statistics

I really dropped the ball on posting statistics over the last couple months! Whoops. Here’re all the numbers you’ve been praying I wouldn’t bother telling you about. The point of inflicting this list upon you is to demonstrate that a) … Continue reading

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Burmese Days

Let this darkness be a bell tower and you the bell. As you ring, what batters you becomes your strength. – Rainer Maria Rilke I had heard from my anonymous tipster (I never asked his name) in Nuodeng that the … Continue reading

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Thirty Minutes in Tibet

The weather was pretty nice the other day. A much needed 24-hour break in the rainy season. My Israeli buddies had headed off on yet another trek, leaving me alone with sunny skies overhead. I did what anyone would do: … Continue reading

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Headed Back in Time

Picking up where I left off, camping at 3000m: I awoke to a pretty mellow sunrise. I was hoping my 3000m perch would present me with something a little more mind-boggling, but the surrounding mountains blocked my view. By 8, … Continue reading

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Against the Stream (for 350km)

“What one person can do, what you can do, what each one of us must do, if we’re going to have a decent world, a good world in which to live, and certainly if we’re going to leave a healthy … Continue reading

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