One Month @ Sadhana Forest Kenya





Samburu county, Kenya, is by far the most remote place I’ve ever visited.  The tarmac stops abruptly some 175km outside of Nairobi, not too far past a small traffic rotary in a little town called Rumruti, and from there it’s another 50km of rocks and dust to get to Kisima.  Along with the pavement, other signs of the 21st century – or even the 20th or 19th – are also absent.  No mile markers.  No railways.  No billboards.  No big box stores or coffee shops.  No electrical or telephone lines.  Nothing, really, except sparse shrubbery and occasional herds of wild zebras, gazelles, and if you’re lucky (I wasn’t), elephants. 

The people of Samburu have lived here for thousands of years, or maybe tens or hundreds of thousands.  Theirs is one of the last indigenous cultures to have been reached by the modern world.  Whatever complexity was lacking in their outward way of life – they were simple pastoralists, grazing goats and cows in the areas around Mt. Kenya and Lake Turkana, living in huts made of sticks and mud – was more than made up for in their intricate culture, full of ceremonies, rituals, songs, dances, and crafts, each with particular meanings tied to stages and events in an individual’s life.  As a human having grown up in a much more fluid culture, I prize freedom and autonomy above just about everything else, and can’t say that I wish I had been born Samburu; but I do wonder what it would be like having a path laid out for me, from child, to warrior, to householder, to elder.  I imagine there must be deep joy in anticipating these transformations and in completing and executing them successfully, for the good of family and tribe; in knowing one’s place on this planet, in having no doubt regarding one’s duties and responsibilities; in being an important part of something bigger than oneself.  Of course, I understand that this is a rather romantic view of what must be an incredibly difficult way of life, and I in no way begrudge anyone who decides to leave it – they must know better than me.  Even so, I am nonetheless happy that such cultures still exist, that there is at least this amount of diversity left in our species. 

For now, that is.  Like much of the wildlife in the area, the Samburu way of life is going extinct.  This is of course in part because some people want to leave, to live in the city, to earn money, to have the chance to experience comfort, convenience, and opportunity – though, sadly, not many of them will actually find it.  But many others leave simply because there is no life for them in Samburu anymore.  The land, grazed bare, seared solid, and only sporadically replenished by rains, does not support as many animals as it once did.  Changing temperatures and unpredictable climate patterns, results of the production and consumption choices of peoples living far, far away, make it hard to know where to go, how many animals to bring, when to slaughter.  The nomadic lifestyle here worked for thousands of years, providing a way for families to live and grow, to be fed and housed, for culture to develop, and all with resources left for future generations.  Not for much longer. 

Sadhana Forest is an international NGO working in the field of ecological restoration.  The particular mission of Sadhana Forest Kenya, the third branch of the project, started in 2014, is to bring long-term food security to the Samburu people.  If this can be achieved, the Samburu will have at least the choice to stay on their ancestral land, to live according to tradition, or to change and modernize the parts of their culture that no longer serve them.  But they will not have to leave, to be separated from family and history, for reasons outside of their control. 

In this post, I will share some basics about Sadhana Forest Kenya, including the circumstances of my 3-week visit in September and October 2018, as well as descriptions of the facilities and lifestyle.  This will be followed later by another post about the tree-planting work.  


My Companions: The Creativity School


We met in Mumbai, this time.  Me, and thirty-three or so South Koreans.  Twenty-four of them were “students “from the Creativity School in Yangsan; seven more were former students who had travelled with the school enough times to now be “teachers;” another, my friend Lee, a former Sadhana Forester now turned Aurovillian and vegan chef; and lastly, Mi-Kong, a lifelong activist who after many years on the front lines decided to turn her energy and efforts towards an alternative kind of education.  

 The Creativity School – in Korean, the Changjo Hakkyo (link) – and I first crossed paths in 2009, during my first visit to Auroville and Sadhana Forest.  At that time, they were a small (I’m tempted to say “motley”) group of ten adults and children (not related) traveling together around Southeast Asia, Nepal, and India.  As far as I could tell, they didn’t have much of a plan or routine; they were just finding their own way around the world, experiencing, reflecting, and learning together.  I thought they were interesting.  Now, they are a group thirty-plus strong, a mix of first-time and returning members, traveling ten months on end, including attending environmental conferences in China, cycling in Laos, trekking in Nepal, busking on the streets of Europe, and living at their home base in Auroville, learning music, drumming, body percussion, English, cooking, tap dance, contemporary dance, and all the while becoming confident, passionate, empowered, and well-traveled individuals. I think they’re incredible.   

 Mi-Kong’s experiences as a democratic activist in 1970s and 1980s Korea – a period of dictatorship and of state violence, particularly against the poor and against outspoken university students – put her on a lifelong path of exploring and developing community.  In the 90s, she started a school in Yangsan, South Korea, where students who were ill-served by the high-pressure, competitive, and stressful conventional educational system could come to learn in a way that would develop their confidence and curiosity.   After several years at the school, Mi-Kong wanted to travel and explore other similar initiatives.  She originally intended to go off on her own, but several parents asked her to bring their children with her in order that they could participate in her search and to learn alongside her.  The traveling school was born.  

It wasn’t too long before she found Auroville, one of world’s the largest, oldest, best-known and most successful experiments in community and human unity.  While in Auroville she was told several times that she ought to visit Sadhana Forest – like her school in Yangsan, Sadhana Forest is a place where children have the time an space to pursue their own interests and passions.  It is also a project based on community, cooperation, consciousness, and a vision-in-action of a sustainable and compassionate way of life for humankind.  Since their first visit, the Creativity School has returned to Sadhana Forest’s home base community in India every year so that the students can experience living in eco-huts, cooking and eating vegan, cutting their own firewood, caring for injured and abandoned animals, and planting and caring for indigenous trees.  For the last three years, the school has also visited Sadhana Forest Haiti and/or Sadhana Forest Kenya as part of their round-the-world trip.  I was fortunately able to join them for at least one leg of their trip, partially as a translator, partially as a mentor, and partially as a student myself. 


Reaching Sadhana Forest Kenya



Because we were traveling as a large group, the project director of Sadhana Forest Kenya arranged two private vans for us: one for 16 passengers and one for 18.  The project director himself also drove to Nairobi to meet us at the airport, to run some errands in town, and to haul the group’s luggage back to Samburu.  The group paid about $12 per person for the van service, which included pickup at our hotel in Nairobi, a lunch stop, and dropoff right at Sadhana Forest. 

 (On my return trip I traveled solo, making use of the private “mutatu” vans.  Mutatus are generally 8-12 seaters and run all over the country.  I took one from Kisima to Nyaharuru and one from Nyharuru to Nairobi, for a total of about $9.)

 The trip from Nairobi to Kisima takes half a day if you start before 7AM, have good luck with any and all connections, and eat only a basic lunch.  If you get a late start, or if your mutatu is delayed – which is quite normal, as they usually don’t set out until all seats are filled – or you stop for an extended lunch or to shop at a local market, you can expect it to take a full day.  Either way, now that the pavement has been extended past Rumruti and halfway to Kisima, the trip is much quicker and more pleasant than even a few months ago.  Sadhana Forest Kenya lies right on the main trading route between Kenya and Ethiopia, so the whole way will be paved before long, reducing the trip time even further. 

As for the scenery along the way, it’s pretty spectacular.  Spectacular traffic jams in Nairobi; spectacular sprawl on the way out, with Chinese construction foremen leading teams of local workers in expanding the highway from four lanes to six (or more?); spectacular markets at the edge of town, vendors sitting behind tomato towers and potato pyramids; small farms surrounded by plots of corn spectacularly terraced onto the hillsides; breathtakingly spectacular views of the valleys and farmlands below as the altitude reaches 2,700m, the road riding the mountain’s crest; and the equally spectacular arid lands in and around Samburu, only scrub and dust as far as the eye can see.  

It’s impossible not to notice the gradual disappearance of fertility as one leaves Nairobi, passes through the groves of Yellow Acacaia trees near Naivesha, the rolling hills of Gilgil.  As the conditions grow rougher, the human population dwindles and the signs of inhabitation become simpler.  Farms give way to desert, shops give way to herds, and concrete gives way to mud.  By the time we reach Samburu, there are hardly even any trees, aside from a few cacti whose trunks turn to wood once they grow above two meters tall.  Samburu county averages 225 mm of rain per year, which is enough to support life – but not a whole lot of it. 

At the time of writing, one of Kisima’s main water lines had malfunctioned, leaving everyone in the area totally without water.  With rainy season long past, every well had gone dry; while on our planting missions, we drove past small children pushing wheelbarrows to and from the local reservoir, one only a few sources of water reachable on foot.  They would have walked at least 10km round trip to collect about 40l of water – standing water that is also shared with and polluted by wild animals and livestock alike.  As a result, local hospitals were also beginning to fill up with cases of typhus. 



Sadhana Forest Kenya Staff

The day-to-day staff of Sadhana Forest Kenya.

Reunion of various volunteers who had all crossed paths at Sadhana Forest India sometime in the last five years.


The staff at Sadhana Forest Kenya consists of:

       The Project Director and Planting Director, who have been with the project for three and five years, respectively.  They are in constant contact with the home base in India and take care of everything related to volunteers, staff, community facilities, supplies, scheduling workshops and planting visits, and so on.

       Local staff, who participate in facilities maintenance, animal care, cooking, tree care, and lead on-campus permaculture workshops and off-campus tree-planting sessions. 

       A few other Long-Term Volunteers and interns who participate in and assist with all of the above.  Some many also have their own projects, such as earthen construction, seed saving, or building rocket stoves in the local community. 

       Short-term volunteers (in this case, us), who lend a hand where needed with any and all of the above. 

       Gate staff, who stay at the front gate to chat with visitors and help them to charge their phones off of the Sadhana Forest Kenya solar grid and to fill water from our bore well.  Both services are offered free to all visitors. 

       Security guards, who patrol the campus at night, mostly to ward off unwanted elephant and lion visits. 

        Soro, Toiye, Siambu, Suki and Nayeriko: five cows that Sadhana Forest Kenya rescued a few years ago when a severe drought was forcing locals to slaughter large portions of their herds.


Sadhana Forest Kenya Campus

The main hut


The campus of Sadhana Forest Kenya, much like that of Sadhana Forest India, began as a patch of barren land.  Due to the combined effects of overgrazing, erosion, and drought, the soil there was in extremely poor condition, able to support only the hardiest plant species, such as a few small shrubs  and thorny acacia trees.  The first step in creating the campus was to fence off the land – not so much to protect the inside from people as from livestock.  The second step was to do some basic landscaping work – in particular, long swales just uphill from likely construction spots – in order to slow, spread, and sink eventual rainwater into the earth and into the aquifer below.  These two steps suffice to stop and even reverse land degradation; now, five years on, Sadhana Forest’s pathways form a maze through the brush.  Shrubs two to three meters tall surround the toilets, while acacias five meters and taller cast shade on the entry road and form glades in which to camp.  The grass at one point reached nearly two meters in height, requiring the introduction of a natural, bio-fueled lawnmowers squad: cows!  The land now effortlessly supports all the needs of the five rescued cows, who patrol the campus daily according to their own schedule, trimming here, depositing fertilizer there. 


The main structures all lie clustered right around the center of the compound: the office / toolshed, the main hut, the dormitory, and the kitchen.  All are built simply, 2×4 frames with corrugated tin roofing, with an eye towards cost efficiency and the ease of future upgrades.  The weather in Samburu is more or less agreeable year-round, and all that is needed from structures is a roof to keep the sun or rain away.  The main gate is near the southwest corner, and just in front of it is an enormous acacia, a fitting and highly-visible landmark for those approaching Sadhana Forest Kenya from a distance, as well as a perfect spot for locals to sit and relax while charging their phone or waiting for their laundry to dry – both electricity and water are offered there free to all.  The Goshala, where the cows sleep at night, sits north of the center, bordered on the east by the Tree Development Area, a food-forest in the making.  The northwest corner contains a few greenhouses for growing tree saplings and a some veggies for the staff and volunteers, as well as a nicely-shaded training center for permaculture workshops – now local councils and other groups often visit to use the space for their own meetings, as large, shaded areas are few and far between there.  Finally, the southwest corner is home to the showers, the laundry lines, and one of my personal favorite parts of any Sadhana Forest experience: the compost toilets.  (One of my tasks during my time there was to add the Sadhana Forest Kenya campus to Open Street Maps.  Check it out here – though be aware that it still needs some fine-tuning). 


What has always drawn me to Sadhana Forest is the way that the missions of the project – here, ecological restoration and food security – are reflected and manifested in even the small details of daily life.  For instance, even those who have stayed at the project for years live in tents parked under trees or simple roofs, meaning that their accommodation’s water and tree-footprint is much smaller than that of a concrete building.  The electricity needs of tents are much lower, as well; to turn on the air conditioning, I just opened my tent door a bit.  The choice to live simply also expresses solidarity with locals, almost all of whom live in small huts made of wood and earth; though actually, it might be more accurate to say that they sleep in such huts, since most of their lives are lived outdoors!  To share in this, to be outdoors by default and indoors pretty much only when sleeping or maintaining the battery bank, was also a source of great joy for me. 


Tents in the dormitory. 

Other tents under the one of the cows’ favorite acacia trees. 


Sadhana Forest Kenya, like the other two branches of Sadhana Forest, gets its power from on-site renewable sources: in this case, solar panels provide power sunrise to sunset, and a small wind turbine offers a little extra during the breezy evening hours.  Water is drawn up from a 100m bore well – there are many others in the area drilled by international charities and NGOs, but few are deep enough to give water year-round, and no others are monitored and maintained full-time – that taps into an underground river.  The toilets require no flushing (instead, the waste is covered with sawdust, obtained for free from a lumber mill in the next big town), and the eventual compost is returned to the land to fertilize it.   Low-tech, high-creativity handwashing stations, showers, and dishwashing stations reduce daily water use substantially, and only biodegradable soaps, toothpastes, and cleaning agents (primarily vinegar and iodine) are used. 

 The solar array, with turbine visible in the background and the office / tool shed in between. 

The wind turbine in operation on a breezy night.


Vegan Food


Head chef Lee serving up breakfast. 


Increasing worldwide consumption of meat and animal products is a primary driver of many of our interconnected planetary ecological crises, including deforestation, land degradation and soil loss, drought, water pollution, air pollution, and ocean ecosystem disruption.  It also leads to habitat loss for indigenous forest communities, involves dangerous and unjust working conditions for many of the humans in the industry, and causes immense physical, emotional, and psychological suffering to billions of sentient beings every year.  Further, of humanity’s various production and consumption practices, it is also among the easiest to change!  For these reasons and more, all Sadhana Forest projects serve only vegan food. 



While Kenya does have a reputation for being a heavily carnivorous country, in reality the average Kenyan consumes far less meat than the average citizen of any country in the developed world.  For rural Kenyans, meat is a luxury, consumed on special occasions or at the once-weekly market; most, even those who trade in livestock, cannot afford to eat it on a daily basis, and certainly not in large amounts.  Like in other parts of the developing world, Kenyans get most of their calories from grains.  Dishes like ugali (maize meal cakes) and uji (maize, cassava, and millet-blend porridge) are common home fare, and sukuma (fried kale), mokimbo (potatoes mashed with greens), and a few varieties of beans, are served with rice or chapattis and readily available at just about every local restaurant.  Meat can be added to most of these dishes, but in small quantities at big price premiums.


Sadhana Forest makes use of organic food when available (lots in India, less in Kenya) and whole, unprocessed, packaging-free foods in most cases.  Situated at the equator but at some 2,000m of altitude, the climate in Kenya lends itself easily to agriculture in the regions where water and topsoil resources have not yet been depleted, so through arrangements with local and regional farmers, Sadhana Forest Kenya manages to source a good variety of produce, from worldwide staples like potatoes, cabbages, onions, carrots, and tomatoes, to primo items like sweet potatoes, zucchini, and butternut squash.  Fruits include the tropical trio (bananas, papayas, and the tastiest pineapples I’d ever had), and luxuries (to me, at least) like tree tomatoes, guavas, passion fruits (two varieties), and big, fat, tasty, creamy avocados.  I am pretty sure I consumed at least fifty avocados during my three weeks there, and that’s considering that I had to share them with 40 other people! 



Breakfasts tend to be pretty simple – usually a plate of assorted cut fruits with a bowl of porridge, which you can modify to your heart’s content with powdered spices (ginger, clove, cardamom), or simply add bananas and jaggery (unrefined brown sugar).  Lunches will be heavier, and usually include brown rice, beans, a veggie dish, and a salad (*guacamole counts as a salad!); dinners, similar but without the beans.  Chefs can also make treats like hummus, and with a bit of planning can even fire up the oven to bake bread, make pizza, and roast sweet potatoes and pumpkins.  During my stay, we were graced with the presence of Lee, the kitchen manager at Auroville’s Visitor Center and a masterful vegan chef.   Armed with sesame oil, soy sauce, seaweed, fermented soybean paste, and other assorted Korean goodies, she kept us very well fed. 


 The serving setup – just as in Sadhana Forest India, a team of volunteers spontaneously self-organizes before each meal to prepare plates for everybody. 

 Cooking and eating materials, cleaned and drying after a meal.

The cooking is done either on solar-powered induction stoves, in solar-powered rice cookers, or on one of these homemade wood-burning rocket stoves. 

The Community Experience


Perhaps the hardest part to put into words – why is it that I have such fondness for this project?  What is it about the place that moves and motivates me so?  (Full disclosure – I have spent nearly three years in total at various Sadhana Forests). 


First of all, time spent at Sadhana Forest gives me a deep sense of living in accordance with my values.  Compassion, nonviolence, global consciousness, and local service are present in every sunrise seen from my tent, in every tree planted into the ground, in every spoonful of guacamole, in every handwash, in every flick of the light switch, in every shower under the moon, and, yes, I cannot help but mention it, in every trip to the compost toilets. 


Second, it removes much of the conflict often associated with such choices.  Sadhana Forest is already organized so that eco-friendly, compassionate choices are the default.  That is, it takes one big, conscious choice to commit to Sadhana Forest for a period of time, be it a week or a year; but after that initial commitment, there is next to no need for frequent debates (whether internal or external) about small matters such as what item to pick off the menu, what kind of toothpaste to buy, whether this shirt fits right, etc. 


Third, participation at Sadhana Forest is a great way to get to know local people.  During my short time at the Kenya project, I was able to connect, converse, share meals (actually, one of my favorite nights there was when I made kimchi fried rice and chickpea salad for six kenyan staff and volunteers, and everyone went back for seconds and thirds), and work alongside with the staff, to hear about the challenges and the joys of the life they were born into.  I had the chance to visit homes and see children playing joyfully in the open scrubland (and, yes, even to chase them around and snatch them up).  I had the chance to visit schools, answer questions about my life back home and my choices and motivations now, and to observe the student’s song and dance performances, offered as a gift after we had helped them to plant trees on their campus.


Fourth, participation at Sadhana Forest is a great way to get to know non-local people!  I find that I bond quite easily with people when we have a shared task to accomplish together, whether it is planting a tree or emptying a toilet.  The regular and concrete cooperation breaks down barriers quickly, and shared dedication to a particular goal can lead to deep and satisfying bonds.  A good number of my deepest friendships were formed through shared times like at Sadhana Forest. 


Fifth, staying at Sadhana Forest (any of them) brings you close to animals in their element.   In Kenya, the cows wander the compound more or less freely, a backdrop to all of our activities and a constant reminder that we share this earth with so many other species – and that we can actively choose to share it better!  Zebra spottings are guaranteed on every trip to Kisima, and on some especially special nights, you may find a pair of small gazelles sleeping outside your tent.  Hyenas call in the distance at night, and elephants leave chewed-up plants, broken fences, and (quite sizeable) clumps of dung as their calling cards. 


Sixth, the Great OutDoors!  (G.O.D.!)  Living in a tent, I don’t need an alarm clock; the sun’s light and heat wake me up right on time.  My commute is a two-minute walk, barefoot if I want, from my hobbit den in a shaded grove to the main hut.  Traffic jams are comprised of a maximum of four individuals, may involve cows, gazelles, dragonflies, or neighboring humans, and are among the highlights of my day.  I watch my handwash and shower water run off to feed plants.  There are no walls to obstruct the fresh breeze, and no roofs so big that I can’t get lost in the sky and clouds at any moment of my choosing.  At night, the stars shine bright and clear, as mesmerizing on day twenty as on day one. 


Lastly, I am simply happy there!  First-order happiness from all the above, and second-order happiness from reflecting on the fact that without fancy food, the latest gadgets, a new wardrobe, a visit to the mall, long, hot showers, a six-digit income, or anything else that I grew up wanting as a kid (and continue wanting as an adult), I am just as happy as I have ever been – if not more.  And if I am happy here, I don’t need all these other things, and if I don’t need all these other things, I definitely don’t need so much money, and if I don’t need so much money, I don’t need to work so much, and if I don’t need to work so much, maybe other people don’t need to, either, and we can somehow rethink and revamp this economy and culture that is devouring the world whole.  In other words, hope – in my experience, a hope that spills over into the rest of my life and empowers me to do what I think is right, and what I think is necessary.  


 Planting with kids from a local school. 





Other Conditions



There are a few other things worth knowing if you’re considering visiting and participating at Sadhana Forest Kenya.  Before visiting, check in via email (address at the end of this post) to get the latest updates:

Seva:  The topic of my next post!  Sadhana Forest is a place to practice “Seva” (Sanskrit for selfless service undertaken with the desire to benefit both others and self).  Each day, all volunteers at Sadhana Forest participate in two Seva sessions before lunch and one Seva session in the late afternoon.  Seva may include trips outside of Sadhana Forest to assist locals in planting trees, or it may consist of caring for trees inside the project, cleaning solar panels, emptying compost toilets, doing dishes, cooking, or other community maintenance work.  Exact hours and duration may depend on the season and tasks at hand. 

Food Contribution:  Sadhana Forest’s infrastructure, activities, and staff are all supported exclusively by the projects’ donors, large and small, who have in most cases been inspired by visits to one of the project sites or by presentations by the founder of the project.  All services to local people, including tree planting, permaculture training, water, electricity, and consultations are provided free of charge.  Volunteers at Sadhana Forest Kenya receive free accommodation for the duration of their stay and are required only to make a fixed contribution to cover the cost of items and materials actually used up during their volunteer period, such as food, eco-friendly toiletries, hygiene supplies, and fuel for transporting all of the above.  This food contribution is currently set at about USD $6 per day, but can change according to local price levels, and in particular the price of petrol.  Scholarships are available to locals who want to undertake extended stays and more intensive training.

Drug-Free Policy:  Sadhana Forest is, in its foundations, a spiritual project – the word “Sadhana” in Sanskrit means “spiritual path” – with the goal of maintaining a continuous state of consciousness and an attitude of service at all times.  In consideration of the fact that recreational drugs generate high amounts of food waste (alcohols), make use of land and water that could otherwise be used for farming subsistence or health-benefitting crops (tobacco, marijuana), and may endanger the safety and security of staff and volunteers (through intoxication), no drugs are allowed on the premises of any Sadhana Forest, and all volunteers are required to sign a declaration stating that they will not make use of any intoxicants during their entire stay at the project, whether inside or outside its fences.  Volunteers are also required to refrain from drinking tea and coffee inside of Sadhana Forest, as the substance or habits associated with it has frequently been found to interfere with the Seva schedule.  Herbal teas and vegan, unprocessed snacks are permitted.


How to Get Involved


Sadhana Forest depends on donors and volunteers for all its activities!  They do not charge for any services, nor do they have any merchandise for sale for fundraising purposes.  All support, whether in terms of funds or of energy, comes from those who are moved by the project’s mission and methods and want to see it grow.  If this is you:

If you would like to join Sadhana Forest Kenya as a volunteer, please do!  All are welcome, regardless of nationality, ethnicity, sex, background, experience, etc.   Email to work out the details. 

 If you are closer to or already visiting India or Haiti, please check out the projects there.  They are run according the same ethos and all have similar missions and lifestyles.  Email or for more details. 

 If you would like to support Sadhana Forest Kenya with a one-time or recurring donation, please visit  You may leave a general donation or earmark your donation for one particular project (India, Haiti, or Kenya) or purpose (trees, animal sanctuary, scholarship for locals).  Restoration work undertaken now will benefit families for generations to come. 

If you would like to support Sadhana Forest by helping to raise awareness, please share this post wherever possible, and connect with Sadhana Forest on Facebook, YouTube, Instagram, Twitter to follow and share there, too.  If you would like to hear about Sadhana Forest in person, please contact the global team at for speaking schedules or to make an invitation. 

 If you have already been to a Sadhana Forest project and have not left a review or like on Google, Facebook, TripAdvisor, or any volunteering platform, please consider doing so!  Email if you are interested in more details about leaving reviews.


Lastly, please stay tuned for my next post, which will be about actually planting trees!

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